Making a garden path – how to build a path in the garden

Paths are both practical and aesthetic elements in the garden. They guide the eye towards the different zones of the garden and protect sensitive areas. For example, you can have a dedicated path to the kitchen garden that you can roll the wheelbarrow on, instead of driving it across the lawn. A path also means that you avoid getting your feet and shoes dirty as much when you walk – very nice when the autumn rains come.

Stepping stones in a garden pond are a creative alternative to a bridge, for example in a Japanese-style garden.

A garden path can be so many things, and both function and appearance depend largely on the choice of material. Here we look at the most common options. 

• Gravel 
  Affordable and easy to work with. Gravel gives a natural look and has good drainage, so that water does not stand on the surface.
• Decorative stone 
  Decorative stone is similar to gravel, but is available in different colors and shapes for a more decorative touch. For example, you can choose rounded (tumbled) decorative stone, to get a more comfortable path to walk on barefoot. 
• Stepping stones 
  Stepping stones are individual stones that are placed with a little distance between them, so that together they form a path. Often made of slate, granite or concrete. A good tip is to place one or more stepping stones in a large flower bed or in the kitchen garden, so you have something to stand on when weeding or harvesting. 
• Flagstones and paving stones 
  A durable material that can be laid tightly (with gaps) for a smooth, uniform surface. Available in various sizes and colors. 
• Brick 
  Classic, timeless and can be laid in various patterns to bring life to the surface. 
• Wood 
  It is more common to make bridges than paths from wood, unless the path is raised above the ground to prevent the wood from rotting. However, if you ensure very good drainage, you can also make a garden path from wood. 

See our selection of garden decorations

A garden path in Nordic style.

Start by deciding where the path will go and what function it will have. Consider the layout of your garden and how the path will be used. Do you want stepping stones at intervals or a more uniform garden path? For example, you could have a lawn with placed stepping stones leading down to a pond, or you could have a solid gravel path between the greenhouse and the kitchen garden for easy transport of plants, soil and other things. Once you know how you want it, it's time to start working.

Dig up the area where the path or stepping stones will be placed. The depth depends on the material, but at least 15–20 cm is common. Many people start by laying a ground cloth at the bottom to prevent weeds from coming up from below. It is also used to separate the macadam or gravel layer from the underlying soil, which helps to keep the material stable and prevents mixing with the soil below.

If it is a uniform path, it may also be a good idea to install edging to hold the materials and stones in place along the sides. Edging is an interesting option for framing the path. If you choose this, you will need to excavate and prepare that surface as well. The edging should be placed so that the top edge is flush with the lawn, so that you can easily mow the grass there.

If you are laying a gravel path, now is the time to lay a layer of gravel or macadam as a base, and then the top layer – for example, decorative stones. Smooth the surface with a rake.

A garden path in a classic style.

Even if you are going to make a path of flagstone, paving stones or stepping stones, you lay a layer of gravel or macadam as a base and then gravel or sand as a base for the stones. This way, the path is stabilized and you achieve good drainage.

Compact the surface thoroughly with a soil vibrator before laying the stones, so you get a smooth and neat end result.

Make sure that each stone is stable and level. When all the stones are in place, you should check that the pattern looks good and that the surface is smooth.

Fill any gaps between the stones with the material you have chosen for the joint. The joints can be filled with joint sand, sand or stone flour, for example. Some also choose fixed joint, hard joint or draining joint to prevent weeds. The type of method and material you choose plays a role in both maintenance and technical lifespan. For example, there are some types that ants prefer to avoid, as well as varieties that are more or less susceptible to weeds, moss, frost and rain.

Joint sand is the classic choice; It works quite well in most of the areas mentioned and is also easy on the wallet. The grout is brushed into the joints and the surface is tamped. The process is then repeated until the joints are sufficiently stable and well filled. Maintenance then consists of topping up as needed.

The same applies to stone flour, with the difference that stone flour is a better choice when you have very tight joints, joints that are only up to three millimeters wide.

Hard joint compound, fixed joint and similar products are better for keeping out weeds, ants and the like, because the surface becomes flexible but firm. You also do not need to maintain the surface in the same way as with joint sand, for example. The surface becomes harder, but still drains water. Some varieties can be high-pressure washed, while others cannot. The disadvantages are that this option costs more, and many varieties cannot be laid year-round, as it must be dry and above zero outside.

Regular maintenance is important to keep the path looking good. Maintenance generally consists of weeding, adding more sand, and washing the surface. If you neglect maintenance, weeds and moss can take over, and then the stones can start to move, leaving you with an uneven and bumpy path. This is because plants bind moisture, and when winter comes, it causes frost damage and movement in the substrate.

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